Have I just always lived in bumfuck, MI, or is Taipei really that interesting? I’m at Cafe 26 in Ximen, the “Japanese” area of the city. I’ve never been to Japan, but from its stereotypes, I can recognize the influence.
During the Japanese occupation, Ximen was the center of imperial Taiwan. 150 years later and Japanese pop-art, fashion, and design are still obvious here. This influence, despite its being made on conditions of military rule, reminds me of something I’m going to call American cultural arrogance. Visiting my brother in Manhattan, the purported world center of everything cool and original, I wandered for 3 days looking for a place like Cafe 26, to no real avail. Every “cafe” was a high-end restaurant.
The walls of Cafe 26 are filled with original artwork, there are splendid pale whitewashed schooldesks for seating, juxtaposed with Murakami-esque superflat patterned couches. There are kleenex boxes covered in original fabric from the housewares art gallery/shop below. The music is in English, but to order I have to point to #2 on the English menu the barista pulls out from underneath the counter. There are little design magazines inside the schooldesks with that matte-paper feel characteristic of good arty magazines. And my iced coffee is at least as good as anything I’ve had in the US.
America is great, and so is New York City. But an hour in Ximen and I’ve seen more creativity than months in Manhattan. It may be that, to my fresh eyes, everything that seems original to me is redundant and predictable to locals. But it seems more likely that the US takes its place as world-cultural-generator for granted.
The real disaster of American ignorance in this respect is that we refuse to be influenced or inspired by external innovation, particularly in the arts. How many US indie-rock musicians listen to stuff made outside North America? In my experience studying philosophy at Michigan State University, a relatively open-minded department, I was exposed to maybe one or two non-Western thinkers, even in courses on contemporary issues. Globalization, even by the definitions of radical American leftists, is understood as the outward explosion of Western values.
I have hope for the US, but it seems that unless Americans begin to comprehend the value of a two-way global culture, the country might lose relevance to creative, original people altogether.
Cafe 26 gives me a little white ceramic plate with my coffee. It has a deep, espresso brown “2,” cookie, a pale green “6,” and a cold chocolate dot: “26.” It’s a color scheme out of a (good) web designer’s portfolio. American culture does spread outward, but all of these other countries are sharing with each other, exchanging ideas, coming up with new stuff. Things are happening here, whether people on the other side of the world recognize it, or care.
edit: somebody’s cell phone just blew up with Lady Gaga’s “Poker Face.”
